Thursday, 27 May 2010

Day 47: exploring Georgetown

JP had a really good idea this morning - let's go to the main museum first, so that we know what we're looking at or learning about when we go round the town. Sounds fab. Only problem - turns out that the museum is closed on Fridays, and guess what day it is today...

So instead, we did a bit of shopping for self-catering stuff, since we're in our own place for a few days, and then wandered, trying to imbibe some culture, but really just feeling exhausted and ready for a nap (in my case at least). We started to get our bearings of where the main sites were, and the sense that the British ruled this island until WWII is pretty clear. The choice of architecture and the layout is very British in feel. There are some really impressive buildings here, such as the Town Hall and the City Hall, which are next door to each other opposite the old cricket ground. Then there is an entire street of mansions, which apparently were built by Chinese merchants and it became known as "Millionaire's Row" - it is just behind the area we are staying so we've been having a look at the houses, and they are, or were, beautiful. Much of the old buildings have been left to fall into decay though, as the fashion seems to be for new high-rise beach front properties. There is one being built at the end of Gurney Drive which is two apartments per floor, each with their own enormous balconies containing an infinity swimming pool. We can't find what they'll cost, but as they have space for maids quarters which aren't even mentioned in the specification, chances are that they are pricey! The maids all come from Inddonesia, and the two governments have been in the news here for the last week trying to agree a payrise - that's how common it is to many Malaysian households. Incredible really, especially as Malaysia isn't yet a "developed" nation - there is still clearly a hierarchy of wealth around here.

So on our tour, we saw the old Fort, a Chinese assembly hall (where we saw the biggest incense sticks ever, hence the pic), before wandering into an area containing the clan jetties. Apparently 6 different villages from China moved here, and they set up their own communities living over the water of the bay on extended piers, which still exist. Mostly they are fishermen's families, hence staying close to the water, but there are temples and food stalls and allsorts. We chilled out on the Lim one for a while, in honour of our friend Jon Lim (who has nothing to do with it except sharing the name!!). They are made up of wooden huts mostly, although you sometimes get a really modern one in amongst all the others, so people are continuing to move in and live there.

Then it was off for a drink - having been to one of the Sarky brothers establishments in Raffles Hotel, we thought we complete the set by going to the Eastern and Oriental Hotel here in G-town. It is very lovely, although it is now on what appears to be a ringroad, with a ridiculous amount of traffic past the front door. Still, the bar is at the back, so here you have himself enjoying a wee snifter before our walk back home.

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