I can confirm that after a second try, I really do hate the jungle; give me civilisation any day. I like hot showers, cold days needing layers of clothes, reliable land transport, coffee shops and pizza, all of which the jungle is conspicuously devoid of. Instead, the jungle appears to consist of at least 80% humidity, enormous insects keen to view you as a walking meat feast, cramped and uncomfortable boat rides that last a lifetime and lots of trees. I still like trees.
We visited Taman Negara, the largest national park in Malaysia. I had my reservations after our last jungle trek went awry in Cambodia, but I rationalised that we were just unlucky and this one would go better. The trip was organised through a tour company this time - the sort of package which is supposed to make everything easy on the innocent tourist who wants to venture into the dark heart of Malaysia.After a bus journey, we reached the boat quay, where we were all plonked onto the smallest, rickety old boat I've had the misfortune to go on, and off we went on our "3 hour" boat ride up river to the park. Four and a half sunstroke-inducing hours later, desperate for restrooms and a chance to stretch our aching bodies, we arrived at the park (see photo for how cramped we were!).
Arriving so late meant we had to race to down food and get back for our night-time jungle trek. This was a little disappointing as the highlights consisted of 2 giant millipedes, the alleged home of a scorpion (she was out when we called), a watering hole with water, but no animals (unless you count the loud Chinese tourists), and then finally, just as I had given up hope, a Slow Loris, which is a nocturnal bushbaby wannabe, all big eyes and cute furry face.
Back to the hotel, where we discovered that the tap/shower water only ran cold and lukewarm, and appeared to come straight from the jungle judging by the lumps of mud/tree/unidentifiable gunk coming through the taps with it. Add in a huge cockroach I spotted crawling on the dressing table near the bed, plus dirty towels, and you get the general gist of how lovely it all was and how happy we were to be there!
We awoke bright and early next day to go on a jungle trek, and the smiles had returned with the morning light, hence why I look so perky in this photo of me modelling how to convert my utility pants into shorts :) In our trek group were two other sets of people, both from India, who had also come up on the same boat the day previous. One was a couple, somewhat older than us, and then an extended family group. We are perpetually amazed at how unprepared some people are whilst travelling. There was a child of 5 years and two septuagenarians in the family, and as the grandma was wearing a sari and sandals, it was pretty clear they weren't prepared for a strenuous jungle trek. Thankfully they had already negotiated with the tour guide so that they were going to do only the canopy walkway and then head back to the village. JP and I had a great time on the canopy walkway, despite his being terrified of heights. No wildlife spotted, but we weren't expecting any, so that was fine, and the views were fantastic.
Next was the trek itself. After the guide dispatched the others off to the village, JP and I were the only ones left, which was great. We were able to go at our own pace, and the guide was really keen to tell us as much as he could about the plant and insect life in the jungle. The fungus in the photo only lives for a day - it appears in the morning and is dead by evening, and is really lovely to look at with the delicate lacework of the skirt around the stem.
About half way through the trek, climbing up Teresek Hill, we heard the trees moving a short distance away. We all froze and started peering through the foliage to see if it was anything notable or a breeze. We were rewarded with a rare sighting of monkeys, eating and grooming and generally relaxing in the midday heat. We should have been doing the same, but that's the wisdom of hindsight talking. At the time, we were amazed at how much two people could sweat, in particular himself, hence this lovely close-up of sweat literally dripping off (and yes, he did approve the use of this photo!).
After we'd climbed all the way to the top and been rewarded with this view, we then headed back to camp for lunch. There were additional activities planned in the afternoon, but as we were exhausted, we called it quits, instead choosing to relax at the hotel. This was an excellent choice as JP became ill over the course of the afternoon. We now know it was heat exhaustion, but I was worried at the time as he's normally the strongest of the two of us. Apart from playing Nurse Nancy, the only other thing I did that day was cry over the hotel manager after finding that there was nothing I could eat in the hotel restaurant. Lesson learned: macho men will do anything to get a weeping woman to stop crying. Hindsight tells me I was exhausted too and the worry about JP pushed me over the edge, but the tears at least procured me a meal I could eat. The manager sent his customer service manager, his deputy hotel manager, the desk clerk AND the restaurant manager in a deputation to deliver the food, which was then followed by another deputation with tea and coffee facilities, followed by another visitation a little while later carrying assorted drinks. I was definitely feeling the love of the Rainforest Resort by the end of the evening.
We left the jungle the next day on an early bus (not repeating that boat trip down river!!) and headed for the Cameron Highlands, which is where we are now. JP is recovered and we're making sure to drink plenty of liquids whilst trekking now. However, more on that in my next post...
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