Day 5: the sleeper train to Hué

Having said our goodbyes to Hanoi yesterday evening after one last ché (weird dessert with beans and gummy sweets in a liquid with ice - odd but tasty), we headed for the train station for our sleeper train to Hué. The website makes it look really lovely, talking about complimentary breakfast and slippers, etc, so our hopes were high. When will we learn that not everyone is entirely honest when selling themselves on the internet? I felt like I'd arrived on a first date with an internet match, only to find out "G_Clooney_123" could win a gurning championship without trying. To say I was disappointed is an understatement - JP took one look at my face and started his 'hearts and minds' campaign to stop me walking straight out of the station and back to the hotel there and then. The only reasons in favour of staying on the train was that a) we were already paid up to the tune of $80 (three nights accommodation at least) and b) Hanoi had outlived it's charms for me thanks to the traffic and noise after our trip to Ha Long Bay.



We put our bags down on our (top) bunks and I had a look at the rest of the carriage. I recently met a lady who brought Dettol wipes with her out here and at the time I thought it was a bit over-the-top, but oh, how I wish I'd shared her vision. The toilet and the sink area were grim, and even the compartment was dodgy, if you didn't look too closely at anything/smell the bedding. The entire train was a shade of green I associate with hospitals, and the guards clearly failed their prison guard exams and hence now work on the tourist trains. Twelve hours later and even JP, who is normally the more relaxed of the two of us, agrees it was not our most successful travel experiment; it is bus, boat or plane for the long trips in future.

On the plus side we are in Hué now and so far, apart from the motion sickness I have developed after three days of rocking on boats and train, all is much better. Hué is much quieter so far, although we haven't seen much, but we have three nights here and the hotel is lovely. Everyone is nice and helpful, and JP has even been to the spa for a massage this afternoon (hence me updating this!). We're off on a boat trip tomorrow, but only for the day, so maybe I'll stop rocking by Monday!